We bid a fond adieu to Kumamoto yesterday morning before heading to Nara. We said goodbye to our most gracious host, who I sincerely hope will make it to New York sometime in the near future because she rocks. She got up really early to see us off. Never underestimate the graciousness of the Japanese.
So off we went to Nara via plane. We arrived and immediately had to bid goodbye to John, who had to go home unexpectedly. John, we miss you!
We then headed to City Hall, ready to see a budget hearing of the Nara City Council. It didn't look entirely all that different from one in New York City. While we had interesting conversation, we then shuttled off to what was probably the one thing I was really looking forward to seeing on this entire trip: Todaiji Temple.
A world heritage site, the Todaiji Temple (the Great Eastern Temple) is probably one of Japan's most famous and historically significant temples. Constructed in 752, it served as the head temple for all provincial Buddhist temples in Japan. So powerful, they moved the capital to Nara.
What you cannot tell immediately from this picture is that it was the world's largest wooden building, even though it's reconstruction in 1692 is only two-thirds of the original temple.
Inside the main hall is the really significant piece, the Daibutsu (Buddha), one of Japan's largest bronze statues of Buddha at 53.1 ft tall. We had the amazing opportunity to go to the base of the Daibutsu, which is pretty amazing since the general public is not allowed that kind of access.
What is the most amazing about this is actually the attention to detail. See, they tricked the eye so that it all looks uniform. The tatami mats that make up the ceiling at the top are actually double the number of the tatami that are on the lower ceilings because then they look uniform all the way through. The hand of the Buddha is also deceiving because it all looks uniform. In truth, the hands are as tall as a human being. From the floor, it looks like it would be easy to hug one of his fingers, but if you were to climb up there, you wouldn't be able to get your arms around it.
He is surrounded by a field of Bodhisattvas, again, all looking uniform, though the ones on the bottom are smaller than the ones on top to trick the eye.
What I love is his hand posture. As the monk explained, the right hand where the middle finger is slightly bent is meant to mean, "Don't be afraid." And the other hand, open to the heavens is supposed to scoop you up. The monk then went on to explain the difference between certain sects of Buddhism and what they believed. What made them different is the belief that anyone can become a buddha, not just Siddhartha Gautama. I was fascinated by his explanation. I think I'm going to have to pick up my Buddhist books again. This was a big thing to check off of my to do list. There's so much more to tell you all but there's other things we did. So maybe when I get a moment to contemplate this all, I will get back to you.
The way to the temple meant a walk near Nara Park, where deer run free. Deer are considered messengers of god, so like cows in India, they are allowed to roam. And they are friendly and willing to be pet. It was kind of cool to just be walking amongst them as we strolled around.
And then we went to the Toyosawa Brewery for... more sake. Yahoo! We had an amazing meeting and saw the pieces of the brewery so we understood more about how sake is made. It is quite fascinating - and much different, if not harder, than making wine because there are more steps. What we really wanted to know were important things like, what is the proper temperature to have sake, how long does it keep, why haven't they tried really doing more business in the US beyond a few bars and Japanese restaurants. Really, we were also very interested for ourselves since I think most of us have now bought at least two bottles to bring home...
So we had a tasting and really learned a lot about the differences between sake. What makes it so amazing is that it is the only alcohol that can really be served both cold and hot, and depending on one's temperament, if not the weather, you can enjoy it any way you want.
As we left, we were told we were getting presents. We were given a bottle of sake, a very limited run (they are only making 2,000 bottles). Because Nara is the sister city of Iwate, they created a special sake of rice from the Iwate Prefecture to raise money for the region for it's rebuilding after the tsunami. It was the perfect gift that encapsulates our time here in Japan, starting in Iwate and ending in Nara, and with a rare sake that we all have somehow developed a very good taste and tongues for.
The Toyosawa Brewery, where all of our sake dreams came true.
Then we headed off to dinner with a most fascinating man, a guy who has traveled all 50 states when he worked for Japan Airlines and worked for the US Embassy and decided he wanted to go home to Nara. He runs a mall with amazing restaurants (including a Michelin Italian Restaurant) and treated us to a very authentic Japanese dinner and some of his amazing company.
Then we finally headed to the Nara Hotel, our final hotel while here in Japan, one of the oldest hotels in the area. It has housed many a celebrity, politician and emperor and when Megan and Laurie and I decided to explore a little, were treated to an interesting history of the hotel by one of the front desk workers who showed us pictures of Charlie Chaplin, the Emperor and the Crown Prince of Japan, Einstein, etc - along with a timeline of important people who have stayed here (of course I noticed Robert Kennedy's name).
It is an older hotel, but it is kind of cool. The ceilings are ridiculously high in all of these rooms, but it's got enough character for me - as well as a fantastic Japanese toilet that's got heated seats and a fireplace in my room. Really, it is the small things.
So this morning, after being treated to a round of calls and texts from the US at 4am (don't ask), I woke up to take a walk with Laurie as we said hello to Nara in the morning.
Beautiful. There were older Japanese folks lined along the bank of this, painting and sketching the scene. They were pretty good, I might add.
So we kicked off the morning with a meeting with our host for this leg, the Mayor of Nara. We had a meeting with him and then met a panel of members of the Nara City Council where we discussed the differences between their system and ours and the issues facing us. It turns out that we aren't all that different, as I have discussed in previous posts. It was a fascinating conversation.
After an Italian lunch (whaaaat? I know, first time and I have to say, it was actually a little nice to lay off of the fish for a meal), we headed to the Yakushi-ji Temple, one of the sites selected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was built in 680 and houses the healing Buddha, one of the first Buddhist deities to arrive in Japan from China. It is also named after this Buddha.
This temple is significant for having two pagodas, though one is under repair. We were able to don hard hats and go up in the scaffolding to see the restoration. (check out that scaffolding, trades folks. I kept looking at it because it was pretty impressive)
It occurred to me, as we made it to the top, that we were having a truly unique experience, walking alongside the pagoda, taking pictures near the top, and getting a commanding view of Nara.
This would prove to be another unique experience as people aren't really allowed to go up into the scaffolding and in some places but since we were special guests, we were getting the royal treatment.
The healing Buddha. There is a part of this building where the Buddha represents the future. His hands signal "welcome" as his other hand moves to scoop you up. Surrounding him are two statues that symbolize the past and the area we were standing in to view the statues symbolizes the present. So past, present and future all in one area. I hope that makes sense. We also got a full primer on the ceiling panels, basically, the same design as the original temple.
We were then treated to a Japanese tea (without the ceremony, though we discussed it) and then more exploring of the grounds that included exclusive access to really amazing paintings (we couldn't take pictures) before making our way to the final temple on our itinerary, the Toshodaishi Temple.
This temple was founded in 759 and while the last temple was impressive, I felt like this was much more zen than the last. Another UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The trees alone were capturing my attention and I felt the urge to really sit and meditate here.
We once again found ourselves in the unique position to go to places the public wasn't allowed. In fact, only a few dignitaries had gone to the place we were about to go besides the monks. Check out this garden.
We then were treated to another special room with amazing paintings, where we gave a prayer to the Ganjin, the first abbot of the temple who founded it as a Buddhist training center. I did take a few minutes of quiet meditation here while we waited for everyone to do their prayer and while waiting for translation. Worth it.
The monk then directed us to the main hall where we viewed some amazing Buddhas, all of which we weren't allowed to take a picture off. These buddhas had survived over 1200 years because there hadn't been a fire at this temple, so they are the original statues. One was of the buddha, with a thousand bodhisatvas behind him. One statue was the buddha with a thousand arms. The other buddha symbolized the past. It was pretty amazing and I wish I had pictures to show you.
So naturally, after a day of temples with Buddhist monks, we went shopping. Ironic.
We came back to the hotel for a dinner hosted by Nara City, where we got to interface again with a few council members and deputy mayors and chamber of commerce folks. It was a lovely dinner, with good conversation and it ended quicker than I thought it would.
So I sit here, after enjoying a quick drink with Laurie and Megan and am contemplating that tomorrow is our last full day in Japan since we leave town Friday. It's hard to believe we've come here so fast, though I am a bit ready to go home. It's just been an unbelievable journey - and while we've been on the road for a long two weeks, jetlagged, eye and allergy issues and all, it's nearly hard to believe our time is almost at a close. More to come on my thoughts on that.
So for now, I realize you have not had a picture of the day in the last post. To be fair, I had a ton of pictures there.
So here's one for you.
There is an ad from the plane that Megan and I could not stop giggling at. Look at the picture. The part in the brown box reads, "corn chocolate with rye biscuit sand." Contemplate that. Because it does not sound at all appealing to me. Bleh.
FInally heading to bed for my last full day in Japan. Blog after the jump. G'nite!
Location:Nara Hotel, Nara City, Japan
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