So for those of you who actually read this blog, this post is in response to the request from some of you on Facebook who have asked me to please, please document my travel travails. I debated the best way to do this. Perhaps a hashtag on Twitter? Just keep updating the Facebook?
Then I sat back and realized, "Bless my corns, I've had a blog since 2002 and I haven't posted in a while." So here we are. If you are seriously interested in reading this, feel free to. This particular assish travel round requires a bit of telling. So settle in. Grab a drink. Have at it:
This week has been particularly awesome sauce in the travel sense. And by that, I mean absolute and spectacular fail. If the time you leave the house to get to the airport counts as the time travel starts, well, that means that I left my house last Tuesday at 4am to get on a flight and won't land until tonight (the following Tuesday at 11pm). I bounced from New York to California to Texas and back to the DC area. Just enough to not just confuse my mind, but my body and emotions, too.
So as I sit here, on my final flight of this trip, ruminating about the "highlights' (can you call them that?), here's where it's at. Not gonna lie, I'm kind of hoping never to have another round like this, but if I do, promise to keep this more updated.
This whole thing started innocently enough. After doing 10 states, 19 cities since March (with many repeat trips to a few of those cities), I've gotten incredibly good at knowing the time to leave my house to park my car, make it through TSA and get to my gate in time. At Dulles. Which is a labyrinth. I even know the good times to travel to hopefully avoid crowds. 4am is a damn good time, in that regard.
Even my cab ride from JFK to downtown Manhattan was quick - a 40 minute ride - on a Tuesday morning. What? I should have known. Oy.
So it all started on Thursday, when my flight was supposed to leave at 11:15 or something like that (can't even remember) with a layover in Salt Lake City (haven't been there yet, thought that might be exciting) before a flight to Sacramento. Everything was alright. Got on the plane, settled in my seat when the announcement came on about hydraulics. And getting someone to look at it. Then it was something about it needing to be repaired. Then replaced. Then we couldn't stay on the plane while they repaired it because they needed to lift one side of the plane at a time. By the way, I had sat on the plane for 40 minutes.
Luckily, I had a significant layover in Salt Lake. Either way, I saw there was a plane through LAX that could have gotten me to Sacramento at the same time (5:30 PDT), so I tried that but I got there just as they stopped boarding. I had just resigned myself to the delay only to hear them crackle over the loudspeaker that the repair now looked like we would be delayed until at least 3pm.
It was 1. Off to the service counter I go. Not many options at that rate. I was definitely going to miss the last flight out of Salt Lake to get to Sacramento for a 9am meeting. So they tried to book me on standby for an earlier flight to keep that flight, but then they put me on an LAX flight at 5. Ok, cool.
By the way, it was a gorgeous day in NYC that day. Not humid, not too hot and a nice breeze. I was staring at it through the glass of JFK and wishing I could at least just sit out there. Instead, I found myself staring at the group of Mormon dudes delayed, carrying on loudly while eating their McDonalds and wondering about those name tags they had on. But I also was not interested in engaging them in any kind of conversation because...well, Mormons. Duh.
My flight at 5 starts to gather at the gate and we hear there's another delay. Another mechanical delay. Oh hell. I go back to the service desk. What are my chances of getting to Sacramento for my 9am? Bleak. The only hope I have is that the plane at LAX is also delayed out. Crap. I get a standby ticket for the first morning flight - just in case. The Delta folks are nice. I should have fought for a drink ticket.
Especially when the woman next to me at the gate pulls off her shoes and proceeds to lotion her legs and feet while we wait. What?
So an hour and half delay later, we finally leave. I am resigned, again, to missing my connecting flight. I watch some movies. I sleep. But when we land, I see in my TripCase that the flight had indeed been delayed. And I run over the teenager that has sat next to me for the flight to get to the gate, the next terminal over.
I make it just as they are boarding. I breathlessly tell the stewardess that I am unsure if they held my seat. She gives me attitude. By the way, Delta has also bumped me to first class for this flight, so I ran to the front of the line. She tells me to stand aside, that if I just arrived on a delayed flight, I probably got bumped to the next morning.
At this point, I had been patient throughout the day, keeping my cool as best I could. But I kind of started to get unglued. It is now 10:30 PDT, I had left my NYC hotel at 8am EST (for those keeping score, that's 17 hours before landing in LAX) and she was giving me attitude. I know I said something in frustration like, "Seriously? I've been delayed since 11 this morning in NY." She remained unsympathetic. Another woman from my flight rolls up and she tells her to stand aside. When the line dwindled, she took that woman first. I stood, fuming. She finally turned to me and said, "ok, let's try your ticket." The green light came up and I said, "Thank you" through clenched teeth as I ran to the plane.
Which also didn't take off right away due to traffic at the airport. I stared at a video screen taunting me with images of tequila for about 30 minutes before we finally left.
I landed at 12:30am PDT, or 3:30am EST. Only to find out that my more economical hotel choice was another 30 minutes away. I mean, not much I could do but laugh. And cry. And maybe swear. A lot. That's not normally a long distance. But at close to 24 hours of travel, it's a lifetime to get to that warm hotel bed.
Saturday, I headed out to Dallas. If you've ever been through the hell that is a small airport (Sacramento) that is really quick to get through EXCEPT for the fact that the rental car place requires a shuttle (why, it's not a big airport) that does not come often - so much that there is a line of people waiting and four shuttles have to come by before you even get on one - then you know at this point, I feel like the universe is playing a cosmic joke on me. I make it just in time to get to my flight as they are just starting the boarding process, get in my seat and...
...mechanical issue that has to be looked at. Uh. FML.
At this point, I'm lucky that in both of these cases, I have given myself a travel day, I wasn't necessarily rushing, but I also had to get there. But still. What.
Long story short, ended up with a 40 minute delay. Then another delay at the connecting at MSP because the plane we were getting on was delayed. What I know is that I was supposed to land in Dallas at 10pm. I landed at 12:30 am. Late enough for the shuttle to the conference center to stop running, but had to pay $30 for a cab ride to go 6 miles. Really, Dallas? Really?
So today, on my last day of travel for a few days (I don't get on a plane again for another week, I think), I snorted when I saw an alert that my plane was delayed 8 minutes. Seriously? 8 minutes?
But the tomfoolery otherwise has not stopped. One thing about spending all the time in the airports that I have, I've been doing some people watching. You know, for a long time, New York was the penultimate in people watching. I think airports may now take the cake. There's so much random shit people do. But today alone was memorable:
For starters, I plugged in my eGo charger with two USB slots in the phone charge area, sitting right next to it, playing on my phone. Suddenly, I feel my phone vibrate as a notice comes up that the charger is not compatible. I glance back to my charger. Someone has plugged in their phone in my extra USB slot. Look, given the rest of this story, you can tell my irritation level does not take long to get to red flag. I turned around again, I think out of sheer confusion and almost utter surprise that anyone would do that without asking. By the third time, the guy sitting next to him goes, "Oh, that's him, not me," and as he says it, unplugs him. And the power usurper glances at me with an annoyed look on his face and I say, "yeah, thanks, it made it not work on my phone just now." He then looks surprised and says sort of apologetically, "oh, really?" and continues his conversation on the phone.
Notice I said "sort of". No apology. What the hell. He was sitting in first class when I boarded my 8 minute delayed flight. I nearly pretended to drop my bag on his head.
Then, my seat mate on the plane not only moved his bag under the seat to squish mine so he could stretch his legs out (look, I'm not judging because I have short legs and even I have to be creative with the leg space, but again, what's with not asking) and fiddled with his phone the whole time. He also had his settings so that his font was huge, so I'd find myself unexpectedly looking over and reading his email (awkward). But then he spent a good deal of time reading some MMA Fanatic blog. I learned a lot from that.
By the way, that 8 minute delay turned into a late enough arrival that I had 10 minutes to get from the plane to my next flight. Another terminal away. Whyyyy.
And now, I sit here as the two dudes in front of me, who just met, babble loudly because apparently they can't hear each other over the plane. But the rest of us can. I mean, yelling. YELLING. Everyone around has headphones on, but glaring at them during moments of particular high volume.
Oh, and remember that guy who borrowed my power without asking? Here's the beauty of karma: as I ran from that last flight out of Dallas, he (and the unplug guy who I realize now is his partner), ran over me and other people to get to their connecting flight. I mean, pushed elderly people out of the way on the moving walkway. I was doing my usual New York hustle when I saw the tram that said Concourse D and the door just seemed to be hanging open with spot for one more person. I glanced up, saw them disappear in front of me and hopped on the tram. Two minutes later, I arrived just at my gate (which really was a much longer haul than I think I realized) and moseyed up to my gate. Only to see power strip dude and his partner huffing it in 5 minutes afterwards.
Some semblance of balance achieved after a hell travel week. I'm weirdly jet lagged. My body basically is telling me to go eff myself. My back and neck are in a wide disagreement about where they should be. I go from wide awake to wanting to sleep forever. But I'll take my small victories and enjoy them. No matter how petty it might seem when I read this with fresh eyes in the morning.
But again, I'm not even home yet. Just blogging from the air. I still have one more airport to survive before I get home. Damnhellass.
Oh, and the dudes are still yelling. I may just start kicking the seat.
7.21.2015
9.16.2014
Tone Deaf: Because it's wrong? Or because they got caught?
I'm mad enough to take 10 minutes to write this story for all of you. And in a blog post. I seem to have returned to myself.
Yes, we can discuss how both of these things are choices. That one involves the willingness of someone to put themselves in harm's way for something they love. The other one involves the split second decision to let blind rage win and anger so vehement to come to the surface that one would actually lay hands on another human being. In both cases, someone much smaller and vulnerable than them.
One thing about living in the DC area is the ridiculous traffic. I mostly can avoid this, thanks to the Silver Line now open close to my home. But on the days I drive in, I can't escape it. And lately, I've been listening to a lot of radio. NPR, BBC and CNN. And today, after some dial surfing on the satellite, I ended up at CNN's "New Day".
And something made me snap out of my quiet morning (quotes not exact, but close enough).
I'll admit that lately, I can't listen to the banter on the morning talk shows. See NPR and BBC as my top choices to listen for real news. But I stopped, mostly because they were talking about the NFL and of course, Ray Rice and Adrian Peterson. I'm not sure that I was conscious about it, after all, it was 7 am. But it was more interesting that what was happening on the other stations at the time.
They had two people on, I honestly don't know who, discussing the suspensions and the NFL and how people are boycotting the NFL and Roger Goddell - you know, the stuff that's been hashed over and over again.
And something made me snap out of my quiet morning (quotes not exact, but close enough).
Dude 1: "What these guys need right now is not the scrum, but counseling."
Me: nod
Dude 1: "But honestly, the bigger problem is the amount of head injuries these players sustain. There's a study out that (insert really high percentage I didn't catch) of NFL players have some sort of brain injury from playing, and honestly, that's the bigger issue. I think the NFL is pleased these stories are distracting from that bigger problem."
Me: head snap "Eh?" inside voice "Did I just hear that right?"
Lady 1: "Well, I don't think they're happy about this, there, Steven. But they need to come up with a real, across the board punishment. You assault anyone, a woman, a child, your spouse, you get a six game suspension. End of story."
Me: inside voice "Ok, but is six actually deterrent from jackassery?"
Lady 1: "Because honestly, that will help. They should get counseling. I personally think Ray Rice should get his suspension lifted because it's not that the NFL saw the tape, it's that you and I saw the tape!"
Me: inside voice persistent "Yes, but... it's still wrong..."Dude 1: "The NFL is just protecting their assets. That's what's happening here."
Lady 1: "I mean, just give them the suspension, they should not be arrested for this stuff, it shouldn't get that far!"
Me: no words. Mouth agape.Lady 2: "Roger Goddell announced that he was forming a consulting team of women to discuss policy moving forward. Do you think that helps or hurts?"
Lady 1: "I mean, it's a good idea. But 6 game suspension, it shouldn't be that hard."
Me: RAGE
I don't know why I didn't stop listening. But I didn't. Was I hoping someone, dear God, anyone would point out the obvious?
One: brain injury in the NFL is serious. It's a serious problem. Here's the thing, though: these guys choose to play, knowing the risks. They know they are in a profession where it's their job to try to run a ball down a field before someone - or more than someone - smacks into them. Hard. With a running, and sometimes leaping, start. They have helmets. They have pads. Sure. But they do it. And they get paid millions to do it. So yes, serious problem? Of course. NFL sweeping it under a rug? Yes. But is it avoidable? Yes. They can choose not to play professional sports. But they do it. Because they love it. Anyone ever seen a rugby or a hurling match? Only recently did they start wearing any kind of padding or armor. But they do it because they love it, too. So this point, while interesting when you follow it down a scientific path and talk about the League's amazing non-response to the issue, does not exactly pan out on the same level. Why?
Two: Because assault. Hello?
Yes, we can discuss how both of these things are choices. That one involves the willingness of someone to put themselves in harm's way for something they love. The other one involves the split second decision to let blind rage win and anger so vehement to come to the surface that one would actually lay hands on another human being. In both cases, someone much smaller and vulnerable than them.
The NFL and the panel of whoever the hell was on the news today? Tone deaf.
Look, I know people get angry. Lord knows I do and I had to learn to shut off at a young age because I have the kind of blind rage at times that can be destructive. I'll be the first to admit that. But nothing, absolutely nothing, is alright about punching a woman so hard she blacks out. No child deserves to be beaten with a switch.
Abuse is not okay. It's not something you should need a panel of women to tell you. It's not something that you should condone with a 2 game suspension or even 6. You think that will stop these guys? Abuse is a life-long affair of torment, of shame, of anger, of hurt. It's finally in the forefront because of these big athletes - sensationalized? Sure. But it's there. We're talking about it. Kind of.
Are these guys upset because it's wrong and they know it? Or because they got caught? Clearly, even Janay Rice is clear that it's the latter. And she's the victim. Is this hard on them? Absolutely. She made a choice to stay with her abuser. And that's her choice. And she's standing by him. Again, her choice. But in no way does that excuse the crime. And her hurt and anger over everyone judging her for that choice, despite the video evidence, is real and totally true, too. But bottom line, he hit the shit out of her. And then dragged her like a rag doll. She may have forgiven him. But hell no, it's not right.
We see people jailed for assaulting someone all the time. We see statistics of women and men killed by stalkers and abusers. Many years ago, if a woman was raped or assaulted by the man she married, there was nothing like spousal abuse. People just didn't do anything about it. We've come a little ways since then. But not far. This conversation proved it.
6 games? I'm sorry. Alex Rodriguez took some steroids and lied about it and sat out for an entire season. Ray Rice got a slap on the wrist until a video came to light and Adrian Peterson got a short suspension for beating his child. And do I think spanking a kid is grounds for arrest? No. Absolutely not. Spanking is normal. Honestly. But a switch? That's a totally different thing.
What do I say? Suspend them indefinitely until they finish a course of therapy and counseling. Michael Vick rightfully went to jail for the horrendous dog fighting ring he owned. 21 months in prison, 2 months of home confinement. I love dogs. But why does he get jail and confinement while these guys get a slap on the wrist? Are women and children somehow not worth it?
No, don't think I'm just being preachy. Domestic abuse and forms of child punishment are not absent from my life. Let's just say this is incredibly personal. Because I've seen firsthand and experienced what it feels like to be afraid of someone. To be afraid of a simple object like a belt. To watch how domestic abuse destroys a spouse. A family. How those scars never truly heal. And how shameful it feels to be a victim. To feel like there's no place to go. To be scared to leave. Knowing the statistics of what happens when you do.
When the Ray Rice video broke, I posted twice about whether or not Rice would have been suspended if the video never came to light. Obviously, he wouldn't have been. I also posted about how domestic abuse is the elephant in the room.
So for those who don't get it, let me make it clear: this is not about football. To many of us. The reason for the capitulation and the calls for the Commissioner's resignation is not because these guys got caught. But because it's wrong. Plain and simple, it's wrong. You want to stop the bleeding? Stop digging the hole deeper. Stop trying to band aid the problem. It doesn't matter whether the victim stays with their abuser (and in a child's case, sometimes has no choice). What matters it is what you prize. Defending an abuser because he is an asset makes you look like a bunch of assholes. Giving them slaps on the wrist makes you look like a crowd of tone-deaf assholes. If you think the 45% of women who watch football are the issue, it's not. It's the many, many people who believe in decency and respect. That's why this won't go away. For a while.
And with that, they turned to politics and ISIS and how Congress does not want to do anything on it until after the election, though they are content to crow about it on the campaign trail. And that's when I turned it off.
I had enough bullshit for the morning commute.
And with that, they turned to politics and ISIS and how Congress does not want to do anything on it until after the election, though they are content to crow about it on the campaign trail. And that's when I turned it off.
I had enough bullshit for the morning commute.
9.11.2014
"The quiet sense of something lost." -Alfred Tennyson
Thirteen. Thirteen years. Really? Is that even possible?
This morning, I woke in my hotel in Florida and went about my morning. About 10 minutes afterwards, it hit me what the date was. And I was surprised. It snuck up on me.
Thing is, you never know how you're gonna feel on this day. I know that's true for the other folks that went through it on that day. You can wake up and just know it. You can wake up and not remember, but it's inevitable that something in your gut will remind you. You can spend the entire week leading up to it knowing it's coming because you are avoiding all of those shows and specials, and most of all, those images. You dread the morning the evening before because you'll remember. Or because you'll be forced to see those images, no matter where you turn. Because even then, when you see those, you never really know how you will react.
I found myself looking up into the sky more often today. Not with any particular thought in my head, not this year. I just realized after a moment that I was looking at the sky at few times today. Subconscious? Maybe. Habit? Who knows. I am in a hotel next to an airport. On this day, of all days. So I'm thinking subconscious. But the quiet in my brain was a comfort. Until I realized it was quiet. Then it was unsettling. But on this day, you forgive yourself. Because. It's that day and you just do.
A post today on Facebook triggered me to go to an old blog post. And before you knew it, I was staring at old blog posts. And I apparently blog on this date or near this date every year, with a few exceptions. And I read. The evolution of this date. This anniversary. I suspect that the years I didn't write were maybe more like today, where I felt enough but not enough. And some years were years I felt too much. Some of them brought feelings rushing back, under the surface. Others made me think. I'm thankful I feel this is a place to share those thoughts that run through my head on this day, those past days. And thankful for the perspective they give me. If you're interested in reading them, the links to the years are below.
It occurs to me that the last time I felt something horribly strong was the 10 year anniversary, it was so raw again. And it just so happened I was in Florida then. This year, it's almost a blessing to feel... what is it? It's not numb. It's certainly not nothing. But it's not something. And that's the blessing. Weirdly.
There is one ritual of the day that I will always observe, and that's checking in on some folks today. Just to see if they are feeling too much today. There's a comfort in that. We don't have to say much to each other. We just know. Some folks make it a point to send me notes today. It's appreciated. More than you will know. I don't know that it'll ever stop. I don't think I ever wish it to. It's also a blessing.
I will always feel something today. I will always feel torn. I will always remember. But today is not overwhelming. Thankfully. But it is quiet. And in the quiet, I find the weight. I find the peace. And the melancholy. And the memory. And the hope. And the sad. That's what I've been running from all day. And yet, it caught up with me. The silence. The quiet.
In this case, Tennyson said it best.
2001 (yes, actually. no, not a blog post)
2002
2003 (not exactly that day, but related)
2006
2011 (definitely related)
2012
This morning, I woke in my hotel in Florida and went about my morning. About 10 minutes afterwards, it hit me what the date was. And I was surprised. It snuck up on me.
Thing is, you never know how you're gonna feel on this day. I know that's true for the other folks that went through it on that day. You can wake up and just know it. You can wake up and not remember, but it's inevitable that something in your gut will remind you. You can spend the entire week leading up to it knowing it's coming because you are avoiding all of those shows and specials, and most of all, those images. You dread the morning the evening before because you'll remember. Or because you'll be forced to see those images, no matter where you turn. Because even then, when you see those, you never really know how you will react.
I found myself looking up into the sky more often today. Not with any particular thought in my head, not this year. I just realized after a moment that I was looking at the sky at few times today. Subconscious? Maybe. Habit? Who knows. I am in a hotel next to an airport. On this day, of all days. So I'm thinking subconscious. But the quiet in my brain was a comfort. Until I realized it was quiet. Then it was unsettling. But on this day, you forgive yourself. Because. It's that day and you just do.
A post today on Facebook triggered me to go to an old blog post. And before you knew it, I was staring at old blog posts. And I apparently blog on this date or near this date every year, with a few exceptions. And I read. The evolution of this date. This anniversary. I suspect that the years I didn't write were maybe more like today, where I felt enough but not enough. And some years were years I felt too much. Some of them brought feelings rushing back, under the surface. Others made me think. I'm thankful I feel this is a place to share those thoughts that run through my head on this day, those past days. And thankful for the perspective they give me. If you're interested in reading them, the links to the years are below.
It occurs to me that the last time I felt something horribly strong was the 10 year anniversary, it was so raw again. And it just so happened I was in Florida then. This year, it's almost a blessing to feel... what is it? It's not numb. It's certainly not nothing. But it's not something. And that's the blessing. Weirdly.
There is one ritual of the day that I will always observe, and that's checking in on some folks today. Just to see if they are feeling too much today. There's a comfort in that. We don't have to say much to each other. We just know. Some folks make it a point to send me notes today. It's appreciated. More than you will know. I don't know that it'll ever stop. I don't think I ever wish it to. It's also a blessing.
I will always feel something today. I will always feel torn. I will always remember. But today is not overwhelming. Thankfully. But it is quiet. And in the quiet, I find the weight. I find the peace. And the melancholy. And the memory. And the hope. And the sad. That's what I've been running from all day. And yet, it caught up with me. The silence. The quiet.
In this case, Tennyson said it best.
2001 (yes, actually. no, not a blog post)
2002
2003 (not exactly that day, but related)
2006
2011 (definitely related)
2012
9.28.2012
Sayonara
As I sit here, looking at the pictures from my two weeks in Japan, it feels like a bit of a blur. It's hard to imagine that we were privy to so much in such a short amount of time. And yet, a few thoughts continue to swirl in my brain.
I was struck by many things on this trip and I could wax on and on about foreign affairs, but for now, let me just hit upon my takeaways and impressions while I continue to contemplate the larger socio-economic pieces I was introduced to since that will take quite a bit of time to unpack and process. I've learned so much - about Japan, about the Japanese, about how others view the United States, about my traveling companions and ultimately, about myself.
Japan is a fascinating place for many, many reasons. It is a humble, yet proud place. It never touts its own goodness, but just quietly sets to prove it. I find it a land of simplicity, of innovation, of beauty, art and grace. In as much of the land as it's people. They are wonderfully welcoming and pleasant hosts who bend over backwards to make you feel comfortable.
Physically, Japan has many distinctions. Tokyo is very much an urban city, every neighborhood has a unique flavor - and a lot of people everywhere. Out north into Iwate, out south to Kumamoto and then back towards Nara, people live with nature. There is a reverence for the land, a need to care for it. Whether it's the clean streets, the care they take to tend to pruning the trees and bushes just right, they take care of their land and environment in ways I think we all could learn from.
Then there's the spiritual side of Japan. It is just evident whether it's the small temples or shrines that you run into or the huge temples in Nara - it's nearly impossible to describe. I've never felt so at peace with the world and the universe as I have there. It practically reverberates from the land and you can feel its positive energy.
There are many things I will remember from this trip. The quiet resilience of the people in Iwate, struck by so much tragedy and yet quietly, thoughtfully and proudly rebuilding following the earthquake and tsunami. The people in Tokyo, with their vibrance and hard work ethic, the elected officials and diplomats of the country, working hard at doing what they can to solve their country's problems. The amazing land and the fun atmosphere of Kumamoto and its people. The spiritual energy of Nara, proud of their place in Japanese history and culture.
We have many differences, but many similarities. We each have things to learn from each other. We have reasons why we are such close allies.
But as we learned over and over again wherever we went, that diplomacy and relationships between countries are essentially relationships between people and I would be remiss if I didn't take a moment to get sentimental about the relationships I've created on this trip.
To ACYPL and JCIE, I will be forever grateful to have had this opportunity to travel in such a unique and amazing way. I never imagined there would be a program that could immerse me into another country so much.
To Yuka and Sachiko and Bill, for not only putting up with me, but for being our guiding lights and voices on this trip, for your hard work, for your amazing spirits and for your friendship. You have been wonderful and no words can thank you enough for this.
Traveling overseas is never easy. So the company you keep really matters. I was blessed with an amazing group of people to travel with. It's one thing to look at the world with your own eyes, to go an experience it for yourself. It's another thing to explore a country through the eyes of six other people, to have such a unique dimension of ideas and a prism to filter the experience through instead of just your own space. If you were to look at who we are on paper, at just our titles, you would wonder why in the hell we would even hang out together, let alone travel together. From the differences between Democrats and Republicans and Independents, to the differences between city, state and federal government jobs, to the differences between business and labor - there is no reason on earth that we should have got along as well as we did.
But that's the amazing thing. When you have a bigger goal than just living in the space that you take up and staying in the box your titles or the other hats you wear put you in, it is easy to strip that all away and just be the people that you are. And traveling in a country where you don't understand the language and where none of you have ever been before makes those things less important. It didn't matter to me what anyone's title was because frankly, we were in this thing together.
I would have never guessed that I'd feel so much love and so strongly for the people on this trip if you had asked me two weeks ago, but it's inevitable. They are amazing in their own rights. We all have our thing, we all have our gigs, we all have our weird little inconsistencies and freak flags to fly. But we spent the better part of two weeks spending nearly every minute with each other and not once did I wish I had better companions. I've learned a lot through their eyes and a lot about myself. And I had an absolute blast.
So to Ling-Ling, Megan, Thad, John and Laurie - a world of thanks and gratitude for not just putting up with me, but for being you and sharing that. I am glad I got to explore a new world with you all and I will be forever glad that we shared this experience together. I am humbled to have made such new friends as all of you. And I look forward to our reunion. At least, I hope I'll be invited. ;) And I'll be sure to send a kampai your way when I drink my sake. May our diplomacy and relations always stay strong, no matter where out paths (or ideologies) take us. Thank you.
I leave Japan, ready to go home but with a wisp of sadness. I truly have loved it here. And cannot wait to go back. If not for the amazing bathrooms and food, alone! (yes, I had to get that in there)
I'm a sentimental fool, so I will leave you with the song I kept listening to throughout our trip together. DMB's new CD came out the day I left for DC and while it will forever remind me of Japan, I kept listening to this song because it just was terribly appropriate for our experience from my eyes.
To Japan, much love and humble appreciation. Sayonara. And thank you. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
I was struck by many things on this trip and I could wax on and on about foreign affairs, but for now, let me just hit upon my takeaways and impressions while I continue to contemplate the larger socio-economic pieces I was introduced to since that will take quite a bit of time to unpack and process. I've learned so much - about Japan, about the Japanese, about how others view the United States, about my traveling companions and ultimately, about myself.
Japan is a fascinating place for many, many reasons. It is a humble, yet proud place. It never touts its own goodness, but just quietly sets to prove it. I find it a land of simplicity, of innovation, of beauty, art and grace. In as much of the land as it's people. They are wonderfully welcoming and pleasant hosts who bend over backwards to make you feel comfortable.
Physically, Japan has many distinctions. Tokyo is very much an urban city, every neighborhood has a unique flavor - and a lot of people everywhere. Out north into Iwate, out south to Kumamoto and then back towards Nara, people live with nature. There is a reverence for the land, a need to care for it. Whether it's the clean streets, the care they take to tend to pruning the trees and bushes just right, they take care of their land and environment in ways I think we all could learn from.
Then there's the spiritual side of Japan. It is just evident whether it's the small temples or shrines that you run into or the huge temples in Nara - it's nearly impossible to describe. I've never felt so at peace with the world and the universe as I have there. It practically reverberates from the land and you can feel its positive energy.
There are many things I will remember from this trip. The quiet resilience of the people in Iwate, struck by so much tragedy and yet quietly, thoughtfully and proudly rebuilding following the earthquake and tsunami. The people in Tokyo, with their vibrance and hard work ethic, the elected officials and diplomats of the country, working hard at doing what they can to solve their country's problems. The amazing land and the fun atmosphere of Kumamoto and its people. The spiritual energy of Nara, proud of their place in Japanese history and culture.
We have many differences, but many similarities. We each have things to learn from each other. We have reasons why we are such close allies.
But as we learned over and over again wherever we went, that diplomacy and relationships between countries are essentially relationships between people and I would be remiss if I didn't take a moment to get sentimental about the relationships I've created on this trip.
To ACYPL and JCIE, I will be forever grateful to have had this opportunity to travel in such a unique and amazing way. I never imagined there would be a program that could immerse me into another country so much.
To Yuka and Sachiko and Bill, for not only putting up with me, but for being our guiding lights and voices on this trip, for your hard work, for your amazing spirits and for your friendship. You have been wonderful and no words can thank you enough for this.
Traveling overseas is never easy. So the company you keep really matters. I was blessed with an amazing group of people to travel with. It's one thing to look at the world with your own eyes, to go an experience it for yourself. It's another thing to explore a country through the eyes of six other people, to have such a unique dimension of ideas and a prism to filter the experience through instead of just your own space. If you were to look at who we are on paper, at just our titles, you would wonder why in the hell we would even hang out together, let alone travel together. From the differences between Democrats and Republicans and Independents, to the differences between city, state and federal government jobs, to the differences between business and labor - there is no reason on earth that we should have got along as well as we did.
But that's the amazing thing. When you have a bigger goal than just living in the space that you take up and staying in the box your titles or the other hats you wear put you in, it is easy to strip that all away and just be the people that you are. And traveling in a country where you don't understand the language and where none of you have ever been before makes those things less important. It didn't matter to me what anyone's title was because frankly, we were in this thing together.
I would have never guessed that I'd feel so much love and so strongly for the people on this trip if you had asked me two weeks ago, but it's inevitable. They are amazing in their own rights. We all have our thing, we all have our gigs, we all have our weird little inconsistencies and freak flags to fly. But we spent the better part of two weeks spending nearly every minute with each other and not once did I wish I had better companions. I've learned a lot through their eyes and a lot about myself. And I had an absolute blast.
So to Ling-Ling, Megan, Thad, John and Laurie - a world of thanks and gratitude for not just putting up with me, but for being you and sharing that. I am glad I got to explore a new world with you all and I will be forever glad that we shared this experience together. I am humbled to have made such new friends as all of you. And I look forward to our reunion. At least, I hope I'll be invited. ;) And I'll be sure to send a kampai your way when I drink my sake. May our diplomacy and relations always stay strong, no matter where out paths (or ideologies) take us. Thank you.
I leave Japan, ready to go home but with a wisp of sadness. I truly have loved it here. And cannot wait to go back. If not for the amazing bathrooms and food, alone! (yes, I had to get that in there)
I'm a sentimental fool, so I will leave you with the song I kept listening to throughout our trip together. DMB's new CD came out the day I left for DC and while it will forever remind me of Japan, I kept listening to this song because it just was terribly appropriate for our experience from my eyes.
To Japan, much love and humble appreciation. Sayonara. And thank you. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
Location:35,000 ft above the Pacific
9.27.2012
Last Day in Japan
Well, it's finally here. It was our last day in Japan. And you can tell we're all getting a bit loopy. Beyond that, I think we're all incredibly tired of our wardrobes, which are probably just about ready to get up and walk off of us at any moment. There's only so much that washing clothes in a sink can do.
So after a fun night hosted by Nara City that included finishing off one last bottle of sochou, we started the day at a local school in Nara to observe the operation and have a meeting afterwards with members of the board and school administrators.
Japanese kids are fascinated by us Americans - or any guest that shows up in a classroom, I suppose. We visited a chemistry class where we gave pennies out to the kids since they were discussing metals (kudos to John for emptying out his coin purse at the airport before leaving for the states). We also visited a math class and an English class. Everywhere we went was met with either stares, choruses of the English they knew (hello, thank you, see ya), a mix of shyness and giggles and of course, open mouths. I suppose one might take that the wrong way but I found it all the more endearing.
Our favorite thing was the phys ed class where the first and second graders did a dance. It was complicated. I don't know that any of us would have been able to join them. They had these huge grins on their faces and they were having a good time. And of course there was the kid that was just slightly off from the other ones by a good beat or so and the ones that just didn't care and did their own thing. And there are a few Glee cast members in waiting. Warning: this is nearly 5 minutes long. And it's adorable.
After we toured the classes, we sat down for a presentation and discussion with the Board of Ed and some administrators. Once again, we found ourselves in a situation where they are facing many of the challenges that we do. In Japan, compulsory education is elementary and junior high. After that, kids take tests to get into high school, which their parents then pay for and then they have entrance exams for college. We discussed things like class size, teacher training, getting the community involved and the unique history that is Nara and their world heritage sites being a point of pride for the students. We discussed issues facing all of our students and were amazed to find out we had so much in common.
We were also treated to a short performance by one of the Board members who happens to be a Noh actor. I suddenly was transported to Dale's Far East class. It wasn't bad. But I still have no idea how Dale sat through a lot of that. I think kabuki and bunraku are my bag.
We then headed to Naramachi, a part of town that is trying to preserve itself in traditional ways. It was a charming part of town and we toured a traditional Naramachi house, which, I had to admit, I really could have seen myself spending a lot of time in.
This guy or statues like it are found on many roofs on corners since he looks out and protects the corner of the street. Cute.
Inside the traditional house sits this lovely garden.
The kitchen - with ceilings to the roof.
We also would run into Shinto shrines randomly.
And I found all of the manholes just charming. Remember, Nara is known for the deer. The emblem of the city is in the middle and check out the rest of it:
Beautiful.
After walking around and taking in the sites, we had a panel discussion with some chamber, tourist and business owners to discuss the area and what they wanted to do with it and if we had any thoughts or ideas. It was a good exchange.
We then finally had time to do some shopping. Many of us ran through the stores and streets to pick up those last gifts as we have not had much opportunity to shop at all. Let's just say that I don't have much of the Yen that I had exchanged when I got here. All good.
We finished the night with a dinner with the superintendent of the school we had visited earlier, the impressive Mayor from a neighboring town (all of my materials are packed, I do not want to get the name of the city wrong) - who was not only young, but a woman with not only a Harvard degree, but who also worked for a very large firm in Manhattan - and our host here in Nara, the Mayor.
We were worried we weren't going to have Japanese food for our last meal (I know, you'd think we were sick of it), but they took us to a 1 star Michelin restaurant where we had a 10 course vegetarian meal that was just brilliant. The dinner itself was laid-back and conversational, all of us still learning but very relaxed. One of our hosts of the city gave us a bottle of his best sake, which was easily one of the best I have had since I was here. It was decadent and lovely with a friendly, light and yet intimate atmosphere.
It's hard to believe it's our last night before we leave here. We all headed back to do our final pack before going home and saying some goodbyes and thank yous.
I am not in a place where I think I can start unpacking this or even sort through what I feel. But I do know that I am exhausted and packed and it's time to go to bed because I have a very early morning tomorrow and ridiculously long hours before I get home.
So forgive me and give me the night to sleep on it. I shall see you all tomorrow (I will be blogging from my many flights home).
Without further ado, here is the picture of the day. I spotted this sign as we were walking around. It doesn't need translation. Until I saw that even the poop was talking, so I asked. The dog is asking for the owner to pick up his poop and the poop is asking to be picked up. Cute and yet slightly disturbing at the same time (only because I don't think I ever imagined such things to be animated, let alone have personalities). It's perfect for the final pic of the day.
Enjoy. See you all on the flip side, when I'm sure I'll wax philosophical and slightly sentimental. G'nite.
So after a fun night hosted by Nara City that included finishing off one last bottle of sochou, we started the day at a local school in Nara to observe the operation and have a meeting afterwards with members of the board and school administrators.
Japanese kids are fascinated by us Americans - or any guest that shows up in a classroom, I suppose. We visited a chemistry class where we gave pennies out to the kids since they were discussing metals (kudos to John for emptying out his coin purse at the airport before leaving for the states). We also visited a math class and an English class. Everywhere we went was met with either stares, choruses of the English they knew (hello, thank you, see ya), a mix of shyness and giggles and of course, open mouths. I suppose one might take that the wrong way but I found it all the more endearing.
Our favorite thing was the phys ed class where the first and second graders did a dance. It was complicated. I don't know that any of us would have been able to join them. They had these huge grins on their faces and they were having a good time. And of course there was the kid that was just slightly off from the other ones by a good beat or so and the ones that just didn't care and did their own thing. And there are a few Glee cast members in waiting. Warning: this is nearly 5 minutes long. And it's adorable.
After we toured the classes, we sat down for a presentation and discussion with the Board of Ed and some administrators. Once again, we found ourselves in a situation where they are facing many of the challenges that we do. In Japan, compulsory education is elementary and junior high. After that, kids take tests to get into high school, which their parents then pay for and then they have entrance exams for college. We discussed things like class size, teacher training, getting the community involved and the unique history that is Nara and their world heritage sites being a point of pride for the students. We discussed issues facing all of our students and were amazed to find out we had so much in common.
We were also treated to a short performance by one of the Board members who happens to be a Noh actor. I suddenly was transported to Dale's Far East class. It wasn't bad. But I still have no idea how Dale sat through a lot of that. I think kabuki and bunraku are my bag.
We then headed to Naramachi, a part of town that is trying to preserve itself in traditional ways. It was a charming part of town and we toured a traditional Naramachi house, which, I had to admit, I really could have seen myself spending a lot of time in.
This guy or statues like it are found on many roofs on corners since he looks out and protects the corner of the street. Cute.
Inside the traditional house sits this lovely garden.
The kitchen - with ceilings to the roof.
We also would run into Shinto shrines randomly.
And I found all of the manholes just charming. Remember, Nara is known for the deer. The emblem of the city is in the middle and check out the rest of it:
Beautiful.
After walking around and taking in the sites, we had a panel discussion with some chamber, tourist and business owners to discuss the area and what they wanted to do with it and if we had any thoughts or ideas. It was a good exchange.
We then finally had time to do some shopping. Many of us ran through the stores and streets to pick up those last gifts as we have not had much opportunity to shop at all. Let's just say that I don't have much of the Yen that I had exchanged when I got here. All good.
We finished the night with a dinner with the superintendent of the school we had visited earlier, the impressive Mayor from a neighboring town (all of my materials are packed, I do not want to get the name of the city wrong) - who was not only young, but a woman with not only a Harvard degree, but who also worked for a very large firm in Manhattan - and our host here in Nara, the Mayor.
We were worried we weren't going to have Japanese food for our last meal (I know, you'd think we were sick of it), but they took us to a 1 star Michelin restaurant where we had a 10 course vegetarian meal that was just brilliant. The dinner itself was laid-back and conversational, all of us still learning but very relaxed. One of our hosts of the city gave us a bottle of his best sake, which was easily one of the best I have had since I was here. It was decadent and lovely with a friendly, light and yet intimate atmosphere.
It's hard to believe it's our last night before we leave here. We all headed back to do our final pack before going home and saying some goodbyes and thank yous.
I am not in a place where I think I can start unpacking this or even sort through what I feel. But I do know that I am exhausted and packed and it's time to go to bed because I have a very early morning tomorrow and ridiculously long hours before I get home.
So forgive me and give me the night to sleep on it. I shall see you all tomorrow (I will be blogging from my many flights home).
Without further ado, here is the picture of the day. I spotted this sign as we were walking around. It doesn't need translation. Until I saw that even the poop was talking, so I asked. The dog is asking for the owner to pick up his poop and the poop is asking to be picked up. Cute and yet slightly disturbing at the same time (only because I don't think I ever imagined such things to be animated, let alone have personalities). It's perfect for the final pic of the day.
Enjoy. See you all on the flip side, when I'm sure I'll wax philosophical and slightly sentimental. G'nite.
Location:Nara City, Japan
9.26.2012
And then there were five...
Another twofer because we're coming to the end of the road here and it's getting harder and harder to find time to post.
We bid a fond adieu to Kumamoto yesterday morning before heading to Nara. We said goodbye to our most gracious host, who I sincerely hope will make it to New York sometime in the near future because she rocks. She got up really early to see us off. Never underestimate the graciousness of the Japanese.
So off we went to Nara via plane. We arrived and immediately had to bid goodbye to John, who had to go home unexpectedly. John, we miss you!
We then headed to City Hall, ready to see a budget hearing of the Nara City Council. It didn't look entirely all that different from one in New York City. While we had interesting conversation, we then shuttled off to what was probably the one thing I was really looking forward to seeing on this entire trip: Todaiji Temple.
A world heritage site, the Todaiji Temple (the Great Eastern Temple) is probably one of Japan's most famous and historically significant temples. Constructed in 752, it served as the head temple for all provincial Buddhist temples in Japan. So powerful, they moved the capital to Nara.
What you cannot tell immediately from this picture is that it was the world's largest wooden building, even though it's reconstruction in 1692 is only two-thirds of the original temple.
Inside the main hall is the really significant piece, the Daibutsu (Buddha), one of Japan's largest bronze statues of Buddha at 53.1 ft tall. We had the amazing opportunity to go to the base of the Daibutsu, which is pretty amazing since the general public is not allowed that kind of access.
What is the most amazing about this is actually the attention to detail. See, they tricked the eye so that it all looks uniform. The tatami mats that make up the ceiling at the top are actually double the number of the tatami that are on the lower ceilings because then they look uniform all the way through. The hand of the Buddha is also deceiving because it all looks uniform. In truth, the hands are as tall as a human being. From the floor, it looks like it would be easy to hug one of his fingers, but if you were to climb up there, you wouldn't be able to get your arms around it.
He is surrounded by a field of Bodhisattvas, again, all looking uniform, though the ones on the bottom are smaller than the ones on top to trick the eye.
What I love is his hand posture. As the monk explained, the right hand where the middle finger is slightly bent is meant to mean, "Don't be afraid." And the other hand, open to the heavens is supposed to scoop you up. The monk then went on to explain the difference between certain sects of Buddhism and what they believed. What made them different is the belief that anyone can become a buddha, not just Siddhartha Gautama. I was fascinated by his explanation. I think I'm going to have to pick up my Buddhist books again. This was a big thing to check off of my to do list. There's so much more to tell you all but there's other things we did. So maybe when I get a moment to contemplate this all, I will get back to you.
The way to the temple meant a walk near Nara Park, where deer run free. Deer are considered messengers of god, so like cows in India, they are allowed to roam. And they are friendly and willing to be pet. It was kind of cool to just be walking amongst them as we strolled around.
And then we went to the Toyosawa Brewery for... more sake. Yahoo! We had an amazing meeting and saw the pieces of the brewery so we understood more about how sake is made. It is quite fascinating - and much different, if not harder, than making wine because there are more steps. What we really wanted to know were important things like, what is the proper temperature to have sake, how long does it keep, why haven't they tried really doing more business in the US beyond a few bars and Japanese restaurants. Really, we were also very interested for ourselves since I think most of us have now bought at least two bottles to bring home...
So we had a tasting and really learned a lot about the differences between sake. What makes it so amazing is that it is the only alcohol that can really be served both cold and hot, and depending on one's temperament, if not the weather, you can enjoy it any way you want.
As we left, we were told we were getting presents. We were given a bottle of sake, a very limited run (they are only making 2,000 bottles). Because Nara is the sister city of Iwate, they created a special sake of rice from the Iwate Prefecture to raise money for the region for it's rebuilding after the tsunami. It was the perfect gift that encapsulates our time here in Japan, starting in Iwate and ending in Nara, and with a rare sake that we all have somehow developed a very good taste and tongues for.
The Toyosawa Brewery, where all of our sake dreams came true.
Then we headed off to dinner with a most fascinating man, a guy who has traveled all 50 states when he worked for Japan Airlines and worked for the US Embassy and decided he wanted to go home to Nara. He runs a mall with amazing restaurants (including a Michelin Italian Restaurant) and treated us to a very authentic Japanese dinner and some of his amazing company.
Then we finally headed to the Nara Hotel, our final hotel while here in Japan, one of the oldest hotels in the area. It has housed many a celebrity, politician and emperor and when Megan and Laurie and I decided to explore a little, were treated to an interesting history of the hotel by one of the front desk workers who showed us pictures of Charlie Chaplin, the Emperor and the Crown Prince of Japan, Einstein, etc - along with a timeline of important people who have stayed here (of course I noticed Robert Kennedy's name).
It is an older hotel, but it is kind of cool. The ceilings are ridiculously high in all of these rooms, but it's got enough character for me - as well as a fantastic Japanese toilet that's got heated seats and a fireplace in my room. Really, it is the small things.
So this morning, after being treated to a round of calls and texts from the US at 4am (don't ask), I woke up to take a walk with Laurie as we said hello to Nara in the morning.
Beautiful. There were older Japanese folks lined along the bank of this, painting and sketching the scene. They were pretty good, I might add.
So we kicked off the morning with a meeting with our host for this leg, the Mayor of Nara. We had a meeting with him and then met a panel of members of the Nara City Council where we discussed the differences between their system and ours and the issues facing us. It turns out that we aren't all that different, as I have discussed in previous posts. It was a fascinating conversation.
After an Italian lunch (whaaaat? I know, first time and I have to say, it was actually a little nice to lay off of the fish for a meal), we headed to the Yakushi-ji Temple, one of the sites selected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was built in 680 and houses the healing Buddha, one of the first Buddhist deities to arrive in Japan from China. It is also named after this Buddha.
This temple is significant for having two pagodas, though one is under repair. We were able to don hard hats and go up in the scaffolding to see the restoration. (check out that scaffolding, trades folks. I kept looking at it because it was pretty impressive)
It occurred to me, as we made it to the top, that we were having a truly unique experience, walking alongside the pagoda, taking pictures near the top, and getting a commanding view of Nara.
This would prove to be another unique experience as people aren't really allowed to go up into the scaffolding and in some places but since we were special guests, we were getting the royal treatment.
The healing Buddha. There is a part of this building where the Buddha represents the future. His hands signal "welcome" as his other hand moves to scoop you up. Surrounding him are two statues that symbolize the past and the area we were standing in to view the statues symbolizes the present. So past, present and future all in one area. I hope that makes sense. We also got a full primer on the ceiling panels, basically, the same design as the original temple.
We were then treated to a Japanese tea (without the ceremony, though we discussed it) and then more exploring of the grounds that included exclusive access to really amazing paintings (we couldn't take pictures) before making our way to the final temple on our itinerary, the Toshodaishi Temple.
This temple was founded in 759 and while the last temple was impressive, I felt like this was much more zen than the last. Another UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The trees alone were capturing my attention and I felt the urge to really sit and meditate here.
We once again found ourselves in the unique position to go to places the public wasn't allowed. In fact, only a few dignitaries had gone to the place we were about to go besides the monks. Check out this garden.
We then were treated to another special room with amazing paintings, where we gave a prayer to the Ganjin, the first abbot of the temple who founded it as a Buddhist training center. I did take a few minutes of quiet meditation here while we waited for everyone to do their prayer and while waiting for translation. Worth it.
The monk then directed us to the main hall where we viewed some amazing Buddhas, all of which we weren't allowed to take a picture off. These buddhas had survived over 1200 years because there hadn't been a fire at this temple, so they are the original statues. One was of the buddha, with a thousand bodhisatvas behind him. One statue was the buddha with a thousand arms. The other buddha symbolized the past. It was pretty amazing and I wish I had pictures to show you.
So naturally, after a day of temples with Buddhist monks, we went shopping. Ironic.
We came back to the hotel for a dinner hosted by Nara City, where we got to interface again with a few council members and deputy mayors and chamber of commerce folks. It was a lovely dinner, with good conversation and it ended quicker than I thought it would.
So I sit here, after enjoying a quick drink with Laurie and Megan and am contemplating that tomorrow is our last full day in Japan since we leave town Friday. It's hard to believe we've come here so fast, though I am a bit ready to go home. It's just been an unbelievable journey - and while we've been on the road for a long two weeks, jetlagged, eye and allergy issues and all, it's nearly hard to believe our time is almost at a close. More to come on my thoughts on that.
So for now, I realize you have not had a picture of the day in the last post. To be fair, I had a ton of pictures there.
So here's one for you.
There is an ad from the plane that Megan and I could not stop giggling at. Look at the picture. The part in the brown box reads, "corn chocolate with rye biscuit sand." Contemplate that. Because it does not sound at all appealing to me. Bleh.
FInally heading to bed for my last full day in Japan. Blog after the jump. G'nite!
We bid a fond adieu to Kumamoto yesterday morning before heading to Nara. We said goodbye to our most gracious host, who I sincerely hope will make it to New York sometime in the near future because she rocks. She got up really early to see us off. Never underestimate the graciousness of the Japanese.
So off we went to Nara via plane. We arrived and immediately had to bid goodbye to John, who had to go home unexpectedly. John, we miss you!
We then headed to City Hall, ready to see a budget hearing of the Nara City Council. It didn't look entirely all that different from one in New York City. While we had interesting conversation, we then shuttled off to what was probably the one thing I was really looking forward to seeing on this entire trip: Todaiji Temple.
A world heritage site, the Todaiji Temple (the Great Eastern Temple) is probably one of Japan's most famous and historically significant temples. Constructed in 752, it served as the head temple for all provincial Buddhist temples in Japan. So powerful, they moved the capital to Nara.
What you cannot tell immediately from this picture is that it was the world's largest wooden building, even though it's reconstruction in 1692 is only two-thirds of the original temple.
Inside the main hall is the really significant piece, the Daibutsu (Buddha), one of Japan's largest bronze statues of Buddha at 53.1 ft tall. We had the amazing opportunity to go to the base of the Daibutsu, which is pretty amazing since the general public is not allowed that kind of access.
What is the most amazing about this is actually the attention to detail. See, they tricked the eye so that it all looks uniform. The tatami mats that make up the ceiling at the top are actually double the number of the tatami that are on the lower ceilings because then they look uniform all the way through. The hand of the Buddha is also deceiving because it all looks uniform. In truth, the hands are as tall as a human being. From the floor, it looks like it would be easy to hug one of his fingers, but if you were to climb up there, you wouldn't be able to get your arms around it.
He is surrounded by a field of Bodhisattvas, again, all looking uniform, though the ones on the bottom are smaller than the ones on top to trick the eye.
What I love is his hand posture. As the monk explained, the right hand where the middle finger is slightly bent is meant to mean, "Don't be afraid." And the other hand, open to the heavens is supposed to scoop you up. The monk then went on to explain the difference between certain sects of Buddhism and what they believed. What made them different is the belief that anyone can become a buddha, not just Siddhartha Gautama. I was fascinated by his explanation. I think I'm going to have to pick up my Buddhist books again. This was a big thing to check off of my to do list. There's so much more to tell you all but there's other things we did. So maybe when I get a moment to contemplate this all, I will get back to you.
The way to the temple meant a walk near Nara Park, where deer run free. Deer are considered messengers of god, so like cows in India, they are allowed to roam. And they are friendly and willing to be pet. It was kind of cool to just be walking amongst them as we strolled around.
And then we went to the Toyosawa Brewery for... more sake. Yahoo! We had an amazing meeting and saw the pieces of the brewery so we understood more about how sake is made. It is quite fascinating - and much different, if not harder, than making wine because there are more steps. What we really wanted to know were important things like, what is the proper temperature to have sake, how long does it keep, why haven't they tried really doing more business in the US beyond a few bars and Japanese restaurants. Really, we were also very interested for ourselves since I think most of us have now bought at least two bottles to bring home...
So we had a tasting and really learned a lot about the differences between sake. What makes it so amazing is that it is the only alcohol that can really be served both cold and hot, and depending on one's temperament, if not the weather, you can enjoy it any way you want.
As we left, we were told we were getting presents. We were given a bottle of sake, a very limited run (they are only making 2,000 bottles). Because Nara is the sister city of Iwate, they created a special sake of rice from the Iwate Prefecture to raise money for the region for it's rebuilding after the tsunami. It was the perfect gift that encapsulates our time here in Japan, starting in Iwate and ending in Nara, and with a rare sake that we all have somehow developed a very good taste and tongues for.
The Toyosawa Brewery, where all of our sake dreams came true.
Then we headed off to dinner with a most fascinating man, a guy who has traveled all 50 states when he worked for Japan Airlines and worked for the US Embassy and decided he wanted to go home to Nara. He runs a mall with amazing restaurants (including a Michelin Italian Restaurant) and treated us to a very authentic Japanese dinner and some of his amazing company.
Then we finally headed to the Nara Hotel, our final hotel while here in Japan, one of the oldest hotels in the area. It has housed many a celebrity, politician and emperor and when Megan and Laurie and I decided to explore a little, were treated to an interesting history of the hotel by one of the front desk workers who showed us pictures of Charlie Chaplin, the Emperor and the Crown Prince of Japan, Einstein, etc - along with a timeline of important people who have stayed here (of course I noticed Robert Kennedy's name).
It is an older hotel, but it is kind of cool. The ceilings are ridiculously high in all of these rooms, but it's got enough character for me - as well as a fantastic Japanese toilet that's got heated seats and a fireplace in my room. Really, it is the small things.
So this morning, after being treated to a round of calls and texts from the US at 4am (don't ask), I woke up to take a walk with Laurie as we said hello to Nara in the morning.
Beautiful. There were older Japanese folks lined along the bank of this, painting and sketching the scene. They were pretty good, I might add.
So we kicked off the morning with a meeting with our host for this leg, the Mayor of Nara. We had a meeting with him and then met a panel of members of the Nara City Council where we discussed the differences between their system and ours and the issues facing us. It turns out that we aren't all that different, as I have discussed in previous posts. It was a fascinating conversation.
After an Italian lunch (whaaaat? I know, first time and I have to say, it was actually a little nice to lay off of the fish for a meal), we headed to the Yakushi-ji Temple, one of the sites selected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was built in 680 and houses the healing Buddha, one of the first Buddhist deities to arrive in Japan from China. It is also named after this Buddha.
This temple is significant for having two pagodas, though one is under repair. We were able to don hard hats and go up in the scaffolding to see the restoration. (check out that scaffolding, trades folks. I kept looking at it because it was pretty impressive)
It occurred to me, as we made it to the top, that we were having a truly unique experience, walking alongside the pagoda, taking pictures near the top, and getting a commanding view of Nara.
This would prove to be another unique experience as people aren't really allowed to go up into the scaffolding and in some places but since we were special guests, we were getting the royal treatment.
The healing Buddha. There is a part of this building where the Buddha represents the future. His hands signal "welcome" as his other hand moves to scoop you up. Surrounding him are two statues that symbolize the past and the area we were standing in to view the statues symbolizes the present. So past, present and future all in one area. I hope that makes sense. We also got a full primer on the ceiling panels, basically, the same design as the original temple.
We were then treated to a Japanese tea (without the ceremony, though we discussed it) and then more exploring of the grounds that included exclusive access to really amazing paintings (we couldn't take pictures) before making our way to the final temple on our itinerary, the Toshodaishi Temple.
This temple was founded in 759 and while the last temple was impressive, I felt like this was much more zen than the last. Another UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The trees alone were capturing my attention and I felt the urge to really sit and meditate here.
We once again found ourselves in the unique position to go to places the public wasn't allowed. In fact, only a few dignitaries had gone to the place we were about to go besides the monks. Check out this garden.
We then were treated to another special room with amazing paintings, where we gave a prayer to the Ganjin, the first abbot of the temple who founded it as a Buddhist training center. I did take a few minutes of quiet meditation here while we waited for everyone to do their prayer and while waiting for translation. Worth it.
The monk then directed us to the main hall where we viewed some amazing Buddhas, all of which we weren't allowed to take a picture off. These buddhas had survived over 1200 years because there hadn't been a fire at this temple, so they are the original statues. One was of the buddha, with a thousand bodhisatvas behind him. One statue was the buddha with a thousand arms. The other buddha symbolized the past. It was pretty amazing and I wish I had pictures to show you.
So naturally, after a day of temples with Buddhist monks, we went shopping. Ironic.
We came back to the hotel for a dinner hosted by Nara City, where we got to interface again with a few council members and deputy mayors and chamber of commerce folks. It was a lovely dinner, with good conversation and it ended quicker than I thought it would.
So I sit here, after enjoying a quick drink with Laurie and Megan and am contemplating that tomorrow is our last full day in Japan since we leave town Friday. It's hard to believe we've come here so fast, though I am a bit ready to go home. It's just been an unbelievable journey - and while we've been on the road for a long two weeks, jetlagged, eye and allergy issues and all, it's nearly hard to believe our time is almost at a close. More to come on my thoughts on that.
So for now, I realize you have not had a picture of the day in the last post. To be fair, I had a ton of pictures there.
So here's one for you.
There is an ad from the plane that Megan and I could not stop giggling at. Look at the picture. The part in the brown box reads, "corn chocolate with rye biscuit sand." Contemplate that. Because it does not sound at all appealing to me. Bleh.
FInally heading to bed for my last full day in Japan. Blog after the jump. G'nite!
Location:Nara Hotel, Nara City, Japan
9.25.2012
Kumamoto Twofer...
Kumamoto was quite a whirl. It's the main reason I'm so far behind in this blog. Yet, it was much more relaxed than Tokyo. But we sure did enjoy our time out there. There are a ton of pictures in this twofer, so enjoy!
(Side note: In the event the video links aren't working, I will fix them when I return from the trip. It's really hard to get decent internet, which is wonky. So I will be sure to take care of that when I get back to a more reliable net connection.)
Since it was a weekend, we did a ton of sightseeing, which was just fine by us since we hadn't really seen too much except for when we could. As we left Aso, we headed to the Shirakawa Riverhead. Which sounds like it could be fairly boring, but instead, it was quite pretty. The drive was also really lovely:
We also were getting some really nice weather up there in the mountains, so that was very welcome. We weren't sure what to expect at the riverhead, but we were pleasantly surprised.
We stopped at the first pool of water to drink it fresh - it's mineral water from the mountains, clean, crisp. We met this adorable lady who was speaking English to us and we had to take a picture. And give her a little gift of a pin.
So we were amazed at this part, which was just really cool. The water comes up from this point and nearly 40 tons of water move in through here every day.
I think, if given the chance, we would have stayed here all day to watch it. At least I would have. I didn't really want to leave, it was so peaceful.
So we bid the place adieu as we headed over to the Takamori Spring Tunnel Park. This is really interesting. They were trying to build a railway thorough the area, but kept having issues with the water. So after a while, they decided to abandon the original project and make it into a tunnel park. Another situation where we weren't entirely sure what to expect but it was pretty amazing.
But wait. That was just the entrance to the actual tunnel. Once we got inside, it was just colors and sights a plenty. They have competitions where schools send in decorations and it was recently a holiday so it was decorated all the way to the end:
But we got to the end and that was the part we were all just amazed at. There was a waterfall of water droplets that just were suspended in mid air and moved both ways. We figured it was some light trick or some beads or something suspended. Eventually, Ling-Ling reached out and we realized it was water droplets.
Let's see if this video works.
We really couldn't stop looking at it.
As we left, it struck me that such a thing in the United States probably doesn't exist. Because the truth is, if we were going to build a railroad, then dammit, we are going to build a railroad, water be damned. And we would have worked really hard to figure out a way for that railroad to go exactly where it needed to be. And if we had a lot of water problems, well, we'd figure those out as we went along. Or re-route the train and turn the area into something else entirely, but I highly doubt we might have made it into what it is here in Japan. The Shinto and Buddhist nature in them make them understand or at least attempt to function together much more in nature. They were telling us that in Japan, you might open the window and hear bugs. To them, they hear the bugs individually, that certain ones make certain noise at certain times of the year, so they know the season by listening to the bugs. That it's music and not just noise. In the US, we would have probably gotten a bug zapper and that would be that. I just find that the delicate balance the Japanese find by placing an emphasis on nature as well as innovation and creativity is something we can learn from.
So after that awesomeness, we went to the Tsujunkyo Bridge. The area we were in was all rice paddies and terraces. But the problem was trying to get water up to areas that were higher. So they created an aquaduct. That alone would be fairly impressive, but also fairly boring to see. Don't get me wrong. It was really pretty. However, because all of dirt and rocks get stuck moving that kind of water to higher ground, they let out the water on weekends and holidays through the aquaduct.
This is what it looks like:
Nice, right? So then you walk up to the top where all those other folks are, and the views are just great.
And then, noon hit. Time for the show. This adorable little man in a uniform and matching hat comes by with a big old hammer and lets one side to immediate "oooooohs" and "aaaaahs". Then he came over to the side we were on and did the same. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves:
Pretty cool. Oh, and we made a new friend.
So then we went inside where a very nice man explained to us how they made the aquaduct and pointed out the area we were in, which was quite helpful to finally see it all on a map.
Then it was off to another 16 course lunch. I'm exaggerating, but it seriously feels like it. Because we were running a little late, they brought it all out an once. I think when you're eating a meal and it's one course at a time, you don't realize how much you're eating except that you're getting full and you're patiently waiting until the rice course, which we are assured is the last course before dessert. So when it was all out in front of us, it was entirely overwhelming. I didn't bother taking a picture. It was too much.
But I did find this statue. Y'all know at this point I cannot resist.
So then we went to Kumamoto Castle, which was just phenomenal.
Of course there's a castle mascot outside of the temple...
And the passage of darkness to confuse enemies and disorient them.
And the view of Kumamoto from the top of the castle.
It was spectacular.
So we finally checked into the hotel - very, very nice. And we went to dinner with the Governor of Kumamoto and Prefecture members and were treated to a traditional Japanese dance.
And made friends with the waitress
And once again, found ourselves having an entirely huge, but entirely and utterly enjoyable meal. And found some sake we really loved. So off we were to the bars to grab a drink before a round of karaoke. Our hosts in Kumamoto got her friend to open up the bar for us and get the mics warmed up. So we made friends at the karaoke bar. Come on, people that know me, y'all know I can't give up a good opportunity to karaoke! We partied until about 11ish and headed back for some rest.
By the way, the song of choice here is "We Are the World". There comes a time, I suppose...
(You should now take this time to stretch. Get up. Run to the bathroom. Grab a drink. Settle in for a spell. I told you this post would be long, and so you were warned. Get back to work and come back for more. Or just keep reading.)
The next day, we started off the day at the Yachiyo-za Theatre in Yamaga City. Given my background in theatre, as well as Dale's classes about Japanese theatre, I was more than ready to see this place. Impressive. The acoustics are amazing because of the wood, they have a manually revolving stage floor, elaborately painted ceilings with replicas of old ads that were on the ceiling at the time. It was opened in 1911 and was known for kabuki and still holds regular performances.
Did I mention that there's not a seat in the house? Literally. The audience sits on tatami mats. All day because kabuki is an all day occurrence. The guide showed us a picture of the place filled with over 1,200 school children for a recent performance. Unbelievable.
The ceiling, with chandelier from the US
We then left the theatre for a tour of Chinyonosono Sake Brewery. I should probably also mention that we have all developed a taste for sake as well as the Japanese drink, souchou. It's all very tasty. We picked up a few bottles before heading on a sightseeing tour of Tamana City. Where we visited... an alcohol store and sampled... sake. There is a theme developing.
And found this guy.
We then went to the Rengein-Tanjoji Temple and were given a tour by a monk. It was originally built in 1177. A thorough tour, complete with incense and washing of hands - and we were allowed in places only monks are allowed in, so it was really cool. And beautiful. And not all too surprisingly, very zen and I could have stayed there all day. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.
And then the monk took us up in the mountains to get a good look at the huge temple bell that is said to be heard for miles around - the largest bell in all of the world.
But then, as you walk further, you see this.
It actually took my breath away when I saw it, I felt like I could stay there and meditate for a while. But of course, we were on a schedule. Thought we did find a few minutes to feed the fish.
Absolute feeding frenzy.
So then we headed back to our hotel to have dinner with the Labor Democratic Party Youth Division members of the Kumamoto Prefectural Assembly. Another huge meal, this time, Chinese. And the lovely gentleman sitting next to me who worked for the Kumamoto Prefectural government decided we should try different types of souchou and local sake. Oy. At one point, I had five drinks in front of me and wasn't sure what to do with myself.
So we left to go to the bar with a few of them and see the Kumamoto Castle lit up at night. I didn't get a great pic of it, or else I'd share. It's very pretty with nothing in the background, but the lights illuminating the castle.
We then went to... karaoke. Surprise. The same place. We had made friends. Let's just say it was a longer night that any of us anticipated. Much longer. Because we were being urged to stay, songs were being thrown in for us, drinks were suddenly finding their way to our table and in front of us... it is hard to sometimes say no when you're being treated but we had to draw the line somewhere since we had to get up early to catch a flight in the am.
So there is your twofer for two full days in Kumamoto Prefecture. I have to say, we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves outside of Tokyo. We certainly have spent more time as a group in a more social setting, which is always fun. But the hospitality and personalities in Kumamoto will definitely stick out in all of our minds because I think we all really loved our time there. I know I certainly did.
And let's not forget Kumamo, either, can we? We couldn't get enough of this little guy and we certainly got enough stuff to remember the Kumamoto mascot.
Sayonara, Kumamoto, konichiwa, Nara! We are on the last leg of this trip and while it feels like we've been traveling in Japan forever, it's also somewhat hard to believe it's coming to a close.
Stay tuned for the Nara pics and updates. I think I've written more than enough for one post. Until then.
(Side note: In the event the video links aren't working, I will fix them when I return from the trip. It's really hard to get decent internet, which is wonky. So I will be sure to take care of that when I get back to a more reliable net connection.)
Since it was a weekend, we did a ton of sightseeing, which was just fine by us since we hadn't really seen too much except for when we could. As we left Aso, we headed to the Shirakawa Riverhead. Which sounds like it could be fairly boring, but instead, it was quite pretty. The drive was also really lovely:
We also were getting some really nice weather up there in the mountains, so that was very welcome. We weren't sure what to expect at the riverhead, but we were pleasantly surprised.
We stopped at the first pool of water to drink it fresh - it's mineral water from the mountains, clean, crisp. We met this adorable lady who was speaking English to us and we had to take a picture. And give her a little gift of a pin.
So we were amazed at this part, which was just really cool. The water comes up from this point and nearly 40 tons of water move in through here every day.
I think, if given the chance, we would have stayed here all day to watch it. At least I would have. I didn't really want to leave, it was so peaceful.
So we bid the place adieu as we headed over to the Takamori Spring Tunnel Park. This is really interesting. They were trying to build a railway thorough the area, but kept having issues with the water. So after a while, they decided to abandon the original project and make it into a tunnel park. Another situation where we weren't entirely sure what to expect but it was pretty amazing.
But wait. That was just the entrance to the actual tunnel. Once we got inside, it was just colors and sights a plenty. They have competitions where schools send in decorations and it was recently a holiday so it was decorated all the way to the end:
But we got to the end and that was the part we were all just amazed at. There was a waterfall of water droplets that just were suspended in mid air and moved both ways. We figured it was some light trick or some beads or something suspended. Eventually, Ling-Ling reached out and we realized it was water droplets.
Let's see if this video works.
We really couldn't stop looking at it.
As we left, it struck me that such a thing in the United States probably doesn't exist. Because the truth is, if we were going to build a railroad, then dammit, we are going to build a railroad, water be damned. And we would have worked really hard to figure out a way for that railroad to go exactly where it needed to be. And if we had a lot of water problems, well, we'd figure those out as we went along. Or re-route the train and turn the area into something else entirely, but I highly doubt we might have made it into what it is here in Japan. The Shinto and Buddhist nature in them make them understand or at least attempt to function together much more in nature. They were telling us that in Japan, you might open the window and hear bugs. To them, they hear the bugs individually, that certain ones make certain noise at certain times of the year, so they know the season by listening to the bugs. That it's music and not just noise. In the US, we would have probably gotten a bug zapper and that would be that. I just find that the delicate balance the Japanese find by placing an emphasis on nature as well as innovation and creativity is something we can learn from.
So after that awesomeness, we went to the Tsujunkyo Bridge. The area we were in was all rice paddies and terraces. But the problem was trying to get water up to areas that were higher. So they created an aquaduct. That alone would be fairly impressive, but also fairly boring to see. Don't get me wrong. It was really pretty. However, because all of dirt and rocks get stuck moving that kind of water to higher ground, they let out the water on weekends and holidays through the aquaduct.
This is what it looks like:
Nice, right? So then you walk up to the top where all those other folks are, and the views are just great.
And then, noon hit. Time for the show. This adorable little man in a uniform and matching hat comes by with a big old hammer and lets one side to immediate "oooooohs" and "aaaaahs". Then he came over to the side we were on and did the same. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves:
Pretty cool. Oh, and we made a new friend.
So then we went inside where a very nice man explained to us how they made the aquaduct and pointed out the area we were in, which was quite helpful to finally see it all on a map.
Then it was off to another 16 course lunch. I'm exaggerating, but it seriously feels like it. Because we were running a little late, they brought it all out an once. I think when you're eating a meal and it's one course at a time, you don't realize how much you're eating except that you're getting full and you're patiently waiting until the rice course, which we are assured is the last course before dessert. So when it was all out in front of us, it was entirely overwhelming. I didn't bother taking a picture. It was too much.
But I did find this statue. Y'all know at this point I cannot resist.
So then we went to Kumamoto Castle, which was just phenomenal.
Of course there's a castle mascot outside of the temple...
And the passage of darkness to confuse enemies and disorient them.
And the view of Kumamoto from the top of the castle.
It was spectacular.
So we finally checked into the hotel - very, very nice. And we went to dinner with the Governor of Kumamoto and Prefecture members and were treated to a traditional Japanese dance.
And made friends with the waitress
And once again, found ourselves having an entirely huge, but entirely and utterly enjoyable meal. And found some sake we really loved. So off we were to the bars to grab a drink before a round of karaoke. Our hosts in Kumamoto got her friend to open up the bar for us and get the mics warmed up. So we made friends at the karaoke bar. Come on, people that know me, y'all know I can't give up a good opportunity to karaoke! We partied until about 11ish and headed back for some rest.
By the way, the song of choice here is "We Are the World". There comes a time, I suppose...
(You should now take this time to stretch. Get up. Run to the bathroom. Grab a drink. Settle in for a spell. I told you this post would be long, and so you were warned. Get back to work and come back for more. Or just keep reading.)
The next day, we started off the day at the Yachiyo-za Theatre in Yamaga City. Given my background in theatre, as well as Dale's classes about Japanese theatre, I was more than ready to see this place. Impressive. The acoustics are amazing because of the wood, they have a manually revolving stage floor, elaborately painted ceilings with replicas of old ads that were on the ceiling at the time. It was opened in 1911 and was known for kabuki and still holds regular performances.
Did I mention that there's not a seat in the house? Literally. The audience sits on tatami mats. All day because kabuki is an all day occurrence. The guide showed us a picture of the place filled with over 1,200 school children for a recent performance. Unbelievable.
The ceiling, with chandelier from the US
We then left the theatre for a tour of Chinyonosono Sake Brewery. I should probably also mention that we have all developed a taste for sake as well as the Japanese drink, souchou. It's all very tasty. We picked up a few bottles before heading on a sightseeing tour of Tamana City. Where we visited... an alcohol store and sampled... sake. There is a theme developing.
And found this guy.
We then went to the Rengein-Tanjoji Temple and were given a tour by a monk. It was originally built in 1177. A thorough tour, complete with incense and washing of hands - and we were allowed in places only monks are allowed in, so it was really cool. And beautiful. And not all too surprisingly, very zen and I could have stayed there all day. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.
And then the monk took us up in the mountains to get a good look at the huge temple bell that is said to be heard for miles around - the largest bell in all of the world.
But then, as you walk further, you see this.
It actually took my breath away when I saw it, I felt like I could stay there and meditate for a while. But of course, we were on a schedule. Thought we did find a few minutes to feed the fish.
Absolute feeding frenzy.
So then we headed back to our hotel to have dinner with the Labor Democratic Party Youth Division members of the Kumamoto Prefectural Assembly. Another huge meal, this time, Chinese. And the lovely gentleman sitting next to me who worked for the Kumamoto Prefectural government decided we should try different types of souchou and local sake. Oy. At one point, I had five drinks in front of me and wasn't sure what to do with myself.
So we left to go to the bar with a few of them and see the Kumamoto Castle lit up at night. I didn't get a great pic of it, or else I'd share. It's very pretty with nothing in the background, but the lights illuminating the castle.
We then went to... karaoke. Surprise. The same place. We had made friends. Let's just say it was a longer night that any of us anticipated. Much longer. Because we were being urged to stay, songs were being thrown in for us, drinks were suddenly finding their way to our table and in front of us... it is hard to sometimes say no when you're being treated but we had to draw the line somewhere since we had to get up early to catch a flight in the am.
So there is your twofer for two full days in Kumamoto Prefecture. I have to say, we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves outside of Tokyo. We certainly have spent more time as a group in a more social setting, which is always fun. But the hospitality and personalities in Kumamoto will definitely stick out in all of our minds because I think we all really loved our time there. I know I certainly did.
And let's not forget Kumamo, either, can we? We couldn't get enough of this little guy and we certainly got enough stuff to remember the Kumamoto mascot.
Sayonara, Kumamoto, konichiwa, Nara! We are on the last leg of this trip and while it feels like we've been traveling in Japan forever, it's also somewhat hard to believe it's coming to a close.
Stay tuned for the Nara pics and updates. I think I've written more than enough for one post. Until then.
Location:Somewhere in the air
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